VANCOUVER ISLAND WINDTALK

I have been following this topic with interest as I have some repairs to do myself. I am most impressed with downwind dave's sucking device and his offer to lend it out( although I don't need it for my repairs). I am thinking I wouldn't want to get stopped by the authorities or cross the border with it though.

i had to build the electric one after my manual pump wasnt cutting it.
I bought it for doing board repairs, i swear!

DWD - ewwww!

Saulman - ain't the Board Lady great? Fantastic when world-class-skills people are so willing to share their knowledge with newbies, in any endeavour!

Classic!!!!

ES: here are a couple of sites that had good resources. The best one by far was the board lady. Maybe BWD could add these to the links section?

Best Repair Site on the Web
www.boardlady.com

Repair Guide from Team AirBorn
http://www.teamairborn.co.uk/56301/index.html

From Starboard
http://www.star-board.com/2009/pages/pr ... repair.php

Colour Guide for Starboard:
http://www.star-board.com/2009/pages/pr ... _color.php


Here is the list I was preparing if I decided to attack the job myself:

For sanding/excavation down
Consumables:
60 grit (leaves good surface for applying layers of glass)
Sharp Olfa blades
Dust Mask

Tools:
Orbital sander
Sanding Block


Minor Gash Filler in non structural areas:
Consumables:
Q-Cells (micro-balloons or similar)
West System 105/205 Epoxy
Mixing cups and applicator sticks
Gloves
Dust Mask for sanding
Sandpaper 120 grit

Tools:
Sanding block


For glassing
Consumables:
4 oz (100 gram) straight weave fiberglass cloth. Should be kept dry and sealed or resin will not wet properly.
West System 105/205 Epoxy. Mix very very well (100 strokes)
Masking tape (use good tape)
Mixing sticks and cups
Sandpaper 60 and 120 grit

Tools:
acid brush (like that used for applying flux for sweating copper pipe)
scissors
squeegee for squeezing out resin
gloves
Sanding block(s)
Sander


Painting:
if little fairing is required: high-build primer (by Z-Spar)
120 and 220 grit to sand primer after application and prior to paint
400grit wet-and-dry, followed by 600, then 1200 grit after painting
LP (linear polyurethane) two part paint (Endura, Allgrip or Imron)
Masking Tape (good stuff)
Plastic for covering the rest of the board and anything within 3 ft.
Thinner
Gloves

Tools:
Airbrush -small pencil style
Pantone guide to match paint colours
Respirator
Sharp tweezers and Toothpicks (to remove wayward bugs or other contaminants)



For Non- slip
Fine acrylic dust (Deck Dust fine)
Set in UV resist epoxy or in LP paint (not as good)

Some of this maybe overkill. Right Kus? I have heard that the Krylon plastic paint works not badly.

If the damage is more severe structurally or damage is in the rail areas where structure is more critical, see the boardlady's pages on how to use a vacuum pump to rebuild the sandwich layers.

Just to follow up, here's a pic of the competed repair by Island Longboards and their repair guy.

Positives
+great colour match
+good paint surface
+little loss of decal graphics
+visually the repair is much less noticeable than this picture shows
+pretty decent turn around (about 1.5 weeks)
+good price and no surprises


Negatives
-a little overspray of white onto the blue. Pretty minor though.
-poor texture match for non-skid. The non-skid needs to be finer.
-Sometime between dropoff and pickup IL put a chip in the opposite side. While they don't dispute when it happened, they haven't offered to fix it.
-Little direct communication with the repair guy so I don't really know what is under the paint.

In the same situation again, I would:
>take it to IL again
>would not have paid or taken the board until they fixed the chip (I was anxious to get the board in case it blew that weekend. In the end I didn't go out).
>instead of sanding first, I would have scraped off the non-skid at the repair area and saved it so that it could be reused for the repair. Or I have some Divinycell that I have heard can be sawn or sanded and this dust can be used for non skid that would have been close in texture.

I'm sure Kus is probably rolling his eyes and making disgusted noises about my attention to appearance however these things would resulted in a better repair (in appearance anyway).

Overall I'm pretty happy with the job and would recommend IL and their repair guy.

looks good! i wondered how that turned out.
you'll want that extra grip up there landing willy skippers anyway.