The science of big waves
Posted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 6:26 pm
Windsurfing, kiteboarding and weather discussions
https://bigwavedave.ca/phpBB3/
"Water waves are an example of waves that involve a combination of both longitudinal and transverse motions. As a wave travels through the water, the particles travel in clockwise circles. The radius of the circles decreases as the depth into the water increases. The movie below shows a water wave travelling from left to right in a region where the depth of the water is greater than the wavelength of the waves. I have identified two particles in blue to show that each particle indeed travels in a clockwise circle as the wave passes."thankgodiatepastafobreaky wrote:Thanks - interesting info - BWDave used to have a little animation of the water molecules in a wave going in a little circle as the wave moves through.
Would that not depend on which side you are viewing the wave from? If the waves were traveling right to left the particles would be going in a CCW direction would they not?As a wave travels through the water, the particles travel in clockwise
circles.