Board repair in Nanaimo area
I have been following this topic with interest as I have some repairs to do myself. I am most impressed with downwind dave's sucking device and his offer to lend it out( although I don't need it for my repairs). I am thinking I wouldn't want to get stopped by the authorities or cross the border with it though.
-
downwind dave
- Website Donor
- Posts: 1469
- Joined: Thu Apr 29, 2004 9:05 am
- Location: Cobble Hill
-
more force 4
- Sponsor
- Posts: 1459
- Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2003 8:57 am
- Location: Victoria, BC
- Has thanked: 23 times
- Been thanked: 8 times
- Contact:
ES: here are a couple of sites that had good resources. The best one by far was the board lady. Maybe BWD could add these to the links section?
Best Repair Site on the Web
www.boardlady.com
Repair Guide from Team AirBorn
http://www.teamairborn.co.uk/56301/index.html
From Starboard
http://www.star-board.com/2009/pages/pr ... repair.php
Colour Guide for Starboard:
http://www.star-board.com/2009/pages/pr ... _color.php
Here is the list I was preparing if I decided to attack the job myself:
For sanding/excavation down
Consumables:
60 grit (leaves good surface for applying layers of glass)
Sharp Olfa blades
Dust Mask
Tools:
Orbital sander
Sanding Block
Minor Gash Filler in non structural areas:
Consumables:
Q-Cells (micro-balloons or similar)
West System 105/205 Epoxy
Mixing cups and applicator sticks
Gloves
Dust Mask for sanding
Sandpaper 120 grit
Tools:
Sanding block
For glassing
Consumables:
4 oz (100 gram) straight weave fiberglass cloth. Should be kept dry and sealed or resin will not wet properly.
West System 105/205 Epoxy. Mix very very well (100 strokes)
Masking tape (use good tape)
Mixing sticks and cups
Sandpaper 60 and 120 grit
Tools:
acid brush (like that used for applying flux for sweating copper pipe)
scissors
squeegee for squeezing out resin
gloves
Sanding block(s)
Sander
Painting:
if little fairing is required: high-build primer (by Z-Spar)
120 and 220 grit to sand primer after application and prior to paint
400grit wet-and-dry, followed by 600, then 1200 grit after painting
LP (linear polyurethane) two part paint (Endura, Allgrip or Imron)
Masking Tape (good stuff)
Plastic for covering the rest of the board and anything within 3 ft.
Thinner
Gloves
Tools:
Airbrush -small pencil style
Pantone guide to match paint colours
Respirator
Sharp tweezers and Toothpicks (to remove wayward bugs or other contaminants)
For Non- slip
Fine acrylic dust (Deck Dust fine)
Set in UV resist epoxy or in LP paint (not as good)
Some of this maybe overkill. Right Kus? I have heard that the Krylon plastic paint works not badly.
If the damage is more severe structurally or damage is in the rail areas where structure is more critical, see the boardlady's pages on how to use a vacuum pump to rebuild the sandwich layers.
Best Repair Site on the Web
www.boardlady.com
Repair Guide from Team AirBorn
http://www.teamairborn.co.uk/56301/index.html
From Starboard
http://www.star-board.com/2009/pages/pr ... repair.php
Colour Guide for Starboard:
http://www.star-board.com/2009/pages/pr ... _color.php
Here is the list I was preparing if I decided to attack the job myself:
For sanding/excavation down
Consumables:
60 grit (leaves good surface for applying layers of glass)
Sharp Olfa blades
Dust Mask
Tools:
Orbital sander
Sanding Block
Minor Gash Filler in non structural areas:
Consumables:
Q-Cells (micro-balloons or similar)
West System 105/205 Epoxy
Mixing cups and applicator sticks
Gloves
Dust Mask for sanding
Sandpaper 120 grit
Tools:
Sanding block
For glassing
Consumables:
4 oz (100 gram) straight weave fiberglass cloth. Should be kept dry and sealed or resin will not wet properly.
West System 105/205 Epoxy. Mix very very well (100 strokes)
Masking tape (use good tape)
Mixing sticks and cups
Sandpaper 60 and 120 grit
Tools:
acid brush (like that used for applying flux for sweating copper pipe)
scissors
squeegee for squeezing out resin
gloves
Sanding block(s)
Sander
Painting:
if little fairing is required: high-build primer (by Z-Spar)
120 and 220 grit to sand primer after application and prior to paint
400grit wet-and-dry, followed by 600, then 1200 grit after painting
LP (linear polyurethane) two part paint (Endura, Allgrip or Imron)
Masking Tape (good stuff)
Plastic for covering the rest of the board and anything within 3 ft.
Thinner
Gloves
Tools:
Airbrush -small pencil style
Pantone guide to match paint colours
Respirator
Sharp tweezers and Toothpicks (to remove wayward bugs or other contaminants)
For Non- slip
Fine acrylic dust (Deck Dust fine)
Set in UV resist epoxy or in LP paint (not as good)
Some of this maybe overkill. Right Kus? I have heard that the Krylon plastic paint works not badly.
If the damage is more severe structurally or damage is in the rail areas where structure is more critical, see the boardlady's pages on how to use a vacuum pump to rebuild the sandwich layers.
The final result
Just to follow up, here's a pic of the competed repair by Island Longboards and their repair guy.
Positives
+great colour match
+good paint surface
+little loss of decal graphics
+visually the repair is much less noticeable than this picture shows
+pretty decent turn around (about 1.5 weeks)
+good price and no surprises
Negatives
-a little overspray of white onto the blue. Pretty minor though.
-poor texture match for non-skid. The non-skid needs to be finer.
-Sometime between dropoff and pickup IL put a chip in the opposite side. While they don't dispute when it happened, they haven't offered to fix it.
-Little direct communication with the repair guy so I don't really know what is under the paint.
In the same situation again, I would:
>take it to IL again
>would not have paid or taken the board until they fixed the chip (I was anxious to get the board in case it blew that weekend. In the end I didn't go out).
>instead of sanding first, I would have scraped off the non-skid at the repair area and saved it so that it could be reused for the repair. Or I have some Divinycell that I have heard can be sawn or sanded and this dust can be used for non skid that would have been close in texture.
I'm sure Kus is probably rolling his eyes and making disgusted noises about my attention to appearance however these things would resulted in a better repair (in appearance anyway).
Overall I'm pretty happy with the job and would recommend IL and their repair guy.
Positives
+great colour match
+good paint surface
+little loss of decal graphics
+visually the repair is much less noticeable than this picture shows
+pretty decent turn around (about 1.5 weeks)
+good price and no surprises
Negatives
-a little overspray of white onto the blue. Pretty minor though.
-poor texture match for non-skid. The non-skid needs to be finer.
-Sometime between dropoff and pickup IL put a chip in the opposite side. While they don't dispute when it happened, they haven't offered to fix it.
-Little direct communication with the repair guy so I don't really know what is under the paint.
In the same situation again, I would:
>take it to IL again
>would not have paid or taken the board until they fixed the chip (I was anxious to get the board in case it blew that weekend. In the end I didn't go out).
>instead of sanding first, I would have scraped off the non-skid at the repair area and saved it so that it could be reused for the repair. Or I have some Divinycell that I have heard can be sawn or sanded and this dust can be used for non skid that would have been close in texture.
I'm sure Kus is probably rolling his eyes and making disgusted noises about my attention to appearance however these things would resulted in a better repair (in appearance anyway).
Overall I'm pretty happy with the job and would recommend IL and their repair guy.
- Attachments
-
- Completed repair
- IMG_4065b.jpg (52.67 KiB) Viewed 993 times
-
downwind dave
- Website Donor
- Posts: 1469
- Joined: Thu Apr 29, 2004 9:05 am
- Location: Cobble Hill
